01 March 2017

New Wheels and New Opportunities



Somewhere, somehow, somebody must have kicked you around some
Tell me why you want to lay there, revel in your abandon
Honey, it don't make no difference to me baby
Everybody has to fight to be free, you see
- Tom Petty



We bought a new car! Okay, we bought a used car. Yeah, yeah ... in reality, we bought a car shaped collection of dented metal with a motor in it. Still, it's a car.


1996 Nissan Terrano, Diesel


Seems a bit extravagant, maybe. After all, my contract provided us with a perfectly functional new car. The problem is, the one they provided doesn't really fit our lifestyle. We do a lot of camping, tramping, and nursery runs/gardening. We like to haul our bikes around and go to the beach. Every now and then, we find that we need to catch a quick nap in our vehicle so we prefer a little extra room to stretch out in. When I signed my contract, I asked for a wagon or an SUV, preferably a 4x4 ... something that would allow us to get out and around with our adventures. What we got was a Suzuki Swift. Don't get me wrong, it's a great city car. It sips petrol - we went from Palmy to Cape Palliser, on to Wellington and back on less than one full tank. And it's really easy to park; in a pinch, we might be able to squeeze it into a dumpster unseen!


But I keep cruising
Can't stop, won't stop moving
-----
I never miss a beat,
I'm lightning on my feet
- Taylor Swift


Lightning on her feet she is not. Sadly, with the three of us and a couple of bags, Taylor just doesn't have what it takes. She tries, she really does, but going up the mountain passes I can't help but chant "I think I can. I think I can. I think I can. I think I can." and on the downside, "I knew I could! I knew I could! I knew I could! I knew I could!"


She don't mind. She's short and skinny, but she's strong.


Buying a car in New Zealand was a really interesting process. Like anywhere else, there are used car lots, car auction sites, and private listings in the paper and online. In Palmerston North there is also a city parking lot where private sellers can park their cars with a listing. As we were preparing to buy, we kept cruising the lot looking to see what was on offer. In the end, I almost bought something from an auction site unseen and without a test drive. Just before I did, Kari cruised the lot one last time and sent me photos of a car that had just shown up.

It's a 1996 Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder in the U.S. and Canada) with a standard transmission and a lot of km's on the odometer, but it's a 4x4 diesel and had just recently passed a Warrant Of Fitness. I spoke with the mechanics who service the hospital motor-pool and for a nominal fee they agreed to take a look at it for me. Despite the dents, dings, scrapes, and re-welds, the car is surprisingly mechanically sound. It's not pretty and lots of plastic bits and pieces are broken or missing. I got it cheap for a reason (4 new tyres weren't much less than what I paid for the vehicle itself), and that suits us just fine. When we leave here in 8 months, I'm not going to be upset if we can't re-sell it for much.

This story isn't really about buying a car, though; it's about who we bought the car from and the society we live in.

New Zealand has led the rest of the world in establishing the rights of its citizens in several important ways. In 1893, New Zealand was the first country to establish universal suffrage, and in 1899 was the first country to establish the 8-hour work day. The Old Age Pension Act was signed in 1898 and was only the second such act in the world behind Germany (1889). Unfortunately, like many countries, New Zealand doesn't always live up to its highest ideals.

The Treaty of Waitangi, signed in 1840 by representatives of the British Crown and Maori chiefs, is the founding document for relations between Maori and the Crown. It gave the British sovereignty over New Zealand and recognised Maori ownership of their lands and other properties, in addition to giving Maori the rights of British subjects. It was written in two languages and the two versions differ in significant ways. As a result, there has been disagreement surrounding what the Treaty actually entails. The Waitangi Tribunal, a permanent commission of inquiry, was formed in 1975 to research breaches of the Treaty and suggest resolutions.

New Zealand has an annual refugee quota of 750 people and they have been under public pressure, both at home and abroad, to expand this.


action station number of refugees per capita
Caveat - I am unable to source raw data to confirm the validity of this information


We bought our car from an Afghan refugee. No, really ...

I didn't know he was a refugee when we first met. I called the number posted for the car and spoke with a very pleasant man. We agreed on a time to meet and take the car for a test drive. The car seemed to drive well and the price was right, so I was definitely interested. My knowledge of internal combustion engines and the machinery surrounding them is limited at best, so I wanted to have the car inspected by a mechanic before I bought it. We arranged to drop the car off at the shop and I offered to buy him a coffee. Sitting in the coffee shop, he told me his story.

He fled Afghanistan, making the dangerous journey through South Asia and eventually settling in Indonesia. From Indonesia, he registered for refugee status in Australia. It took a few years, but he was eventually accepted to apply as a refugee in Australia. Unfortunately, as part of a background check, it was found that he was friends with an illegal money launderer, scuttling his chances. In desperation, he attempted a dangerous boat crossing to Australia hoping to land there and claim asylum. He was caught and returned to Indonesia. This essentially ended any hope of ever making it to Australia legally.

He put his head down and went to work as a baker in Indonesia where he met his future wife, eventually got married and had a child. Along the way, he applied to New Zealand but was told that since he was married to an Indonesian he would need to remain there. He continued to work hard in Indonesia and became an advocate for refugees there. His case was featured in a documentary, bringing his situation to the attention of an advocate who went to bat for him. After almost 10 years in Indonesia, he and his family were awarded a spot in New Zealand. In New Zealand, he has taken whatever work he can get. At one point, he was collecting feral sheep and cattle from the bush, hard and dangerous work. His talent and passion is as a "panel beater" (auto body-shop) and he is currently looking for employment in that field. He also continues to advocate for other refugees.

I have always taken pride in my resilience in the face of adversity, but the reality is that my life has been pretty charmed without any real hardship. I sat in amazement listening to this man's story and I couldn't imagine the devastation he fled and the fear he must have experienced. We talk a lot about "heroes" and "bravery" in our culture. The quiet, soft-spoken, humble man with whom I was sharing a coffee was bravery personified.




Kari ...
During my childhood, a priority for my parents was to expose my brother and me to different cultures This came with some ease, since we grew up in Houston, Texas, a sprawling metropolis with never ending culture and diverse ethnic groups. To supplement exposure at home, we traveled. It wasn't always international travel, as you can travel from one region to the next domestically and have a vastly different experience of the culture of that region. This exposure is very important and imperative to me as we raise Little H. Those who know us well know that we value traveling outside of our "bubble" and seeking unique opportunities within our "bubble".
One of the more important reasons driving our adventure in New Zealand is our desire for that exposure, not only for Little H, but for Grant and me, as we continue to learn and grow. Little did I know that Palmerston North would be a banquet for diversity; not just with the mix of Maori and European Kiwis, but with the influx of numerous ethnic groups drawn to the city for Massey University and the pockets of refugees that New Zealand has graciously taken under wing.
Since I am not working during this year abroad, I have sought out opportunities to meet and learn from the seemingly unlimited, and most times free, community events and workshops sponsored and supported by the city. On one such outing, Little H and I went on a field trip to a local environmental centre. With the exception of about ten others, the chartered bus was full of refugees from Bhutan, Syria, and Afghanistan. Most of them didn't speak English, and I also didn't speak their language. The glorious and uplifting thing about this is that it didn't matter. Laughter, smiling and experiencing a day together doesn't need verbal communication. It was one of the best experiences I have had here.
Via Facebook, which those who know me would attest to my constant communication, dare I say addiction, I have kept in contact with the environmental centre's organizer and some of the local organizations that support refugee resettlement. This is how I learned about the Valentine's Day dinner to support the Afghanistan refugee community here. We are not ones to celebrate this overly commercialized day anyway, so I thought it was a great way to support the community and expose Little H to even more diversity.  I couldn't have been more proud of her. She didn't hesitate to try the various courses offered that evening and continually commented and asked questions about the dress, food, and overall culture of the Afghans who planned, prepared, cooked and served our meal. We even saw and spoke to familiar faces and friends who we have met during other social interactions around the city.
Travel and exposure to those who are different from you is imperative. I believe it develops altruism and helps fend off egocentrism. Understanding and acknowledging the differences that make up this beautiful, and sometimes ugly world, helps cultivate an open mind. This is what I want for Little H. Always seek out those who are different and discover ways to integrate and accept those differences, all the while forming stronger bonds with your brothers and sisters of this world.

We had a "Meet The Teacher" pool party and sausage sizzle at Little Highstead's school the same night as the dinner (I guess Valentine's Day isn't that big of a deal here), so we were a little late to the church. Most of the tables were pretty full but we spotted some empty seats and wound our way over to them. As we sat down and I turned to say "hello" to everyone else at the table, I found myself face to face with the man from whom I had just purchased a car. He has continued his work advocating for and helping refugees here in Palmy, and he was invited to provide some of the evening's entertainment. While we were eating, he was up on stage playing an ektara and singing.

Ultimately, this was a fundraiser for the Manawatu Reuniting Refugee Family Trust. It's an organization that provides money for former refugees already resettled in our area and helps them bring immediate family members to New Zealand. At the end of the night, we didn't go home empty handed; we bid on, and won, a tasty bottle of New Zealand wine that we plan to share with my brother and SIL when they come to visit in a few weeks.



Ka kite ano ...

06 February 2017

Time Away






After putting out 28 posts in 24 weeks, I am taking a much-needed break from writing; however, I am continuing to generate ideas and researching other aspects of life here in New Zealand.

If you haven't been following from the beginning, please visit some of the older posts. As always, your thoughts, ideas, suggestions and input are welcome and appreciated.

Back in a few weeks ...

03 February 2017

Around New Zealand in 14 Days (Part 2)



We rented a truck and a semi to go
Travel down the long and divided road
Look on the map I think we've been there before
Close up the doors
Let's roll once more
- Fred Turner / Robbie Bachman



When we last left our intrepid travellers, they had just tucked in for the night after performing a haka and enjoying a Maori feast ...


Maori Cultural Experience, Tamaki Maori Village - February 2014


We were up early the next day to get on the road to Gisborne and a long anticipated visit with old friends. We weren't up too early to get pies, though. I'm not sure who, but someone suggested we stop at Gold Star Bakery and Lunch Bar for Patrick's Pies. Since 2003, Patrick Lam has won 61 awards for his pies, including 5 Supreme Pie medals in the the Best Pie in NZ competition. This guy knows pies ... and we didn't. At this point, we had been in New Zealand almost a week and we had never heard of Kiwi pies.

For those of you not from New Zealand, imagine a single serving savory pot pie, then imagine it being the best tasting thing you have ever put in your mouth. That's a good pie, but it ain't no Patrick's Pie. Not even close. The first thing we did after we got off the plane when we returned to NZ in 2016 was get some pies. Unfortunately, we were in Auckland, so they weren't Patrick's Pies. Since moving to NZ, we have become quite the pie connoisseurs.


  
These are not Patrick's Pies - Piccolo Morso pies, New Plymouth NZ - Dec 2016


The plan was to spend two days/1 night in Gizzy then keep on heading down the highway. One of the many reasons we chose to travel by caravan was so that we could have a little more freedom to change our plans on a whim; move on if we found ourselves somewhere we didn't like and stay a little longer if we found somewhere we wanted to linger. We ended up in Gizzy for two nights and the better part of 3 days.

When Kari and I first started talking about moving to New Zealand, a friend of mine from Hawaii (now living in Japan) mentioned that other friends from those years were living in NZ. Alyssa is a doctor and works as a hospitalist. She introduced us to the ED and to a group of local physicians. The introductions were made at the local Farmer's Market on Saturday morning, and later at the Wine Centre. Funny thing, memory ... when we left Gizzy after our three days there, we liked it but found it a little too small and isolated from the rest of NZ. When we recently returned, Gizzy seemed bigger and more vibrant than we remembered. It's definitely on the short list for our next job search.

One of the many advantages to riding in a caravan is the ability to get out and explore. We had no bookings (and no reservations). There was no pressure to "be there by" or "make it to". Driving along in search of our next destination, we were free to explore smaller highways or to just get out and walk.


  
     
Exploring a stream and suspension bridge ... somewhere between Gizzy and Napier NZ - February 2014


     
Black sand beaches, Napier NZ - February 2014


We continued following the coastal roads through the Hawke's Bay Region towards Napier and Hastings. Napier has the largest seaport in Central NZ and the second largest port on the North Island. As such, it serves as the nexus for the largest wool centre in the Southern Hemisphere. It has another claim to fame, though.

The Heretaunga Plains is one of the most seismically active areas in New Zealand. In 1931 the Hawke's Bay Earthquake razed the city and it was rebuilt in a predominantly Art Deco style. Napier NZ and South Beach (Miami) Florida are considered the two best preserved Art Deco towns in the world. Some of the buildings have been rebuilt or replaced, but since the 1990's this unique setting has been protected and restored. Kari was fascinated and could have walked around all day. I'm not much for standing and staring at buildings and by this time Little H was about ready to have a meltdown, so it was on to the main attraction for the day ... the Nat'l Aquarium of NZ.


     
  
Art Deco architecture, Napier NZ - February 2014


  
National Aquarium, Napier NZ - February 2014


We spent the night freedom camping on the shores of Hawke's Bay in Clive NZ, and the next morning had another lazy cafe breakfast ...


     
Beach side freedom camping and morning cafe, Clive NZ - February 2014


I typically let Kari do the navigating when we travel. I tell Little H that Kari's job is to tell me the way and my job is to get us there safely. Sometimes I put a little too much faith in Kari's ability to read a map! Directions are no problem ... it's her inability to judge distance, time, or road types that sometimes gets us into trouble. On this morning she decided that she wanted to go to the top of Te Mata Peak in Havelock North, NZ. Off we went.

From the park's website:

A 'rite of passage' for local residents and visitors alike, the drive up Te Mata Peak is a real thrill and the views from the top are amazing. Watch out for sheep, walkers and tight bends on your way up to the top car park. From the trig point at the summit, the 360 degree views take in the beautiful Heretaunga Plains, the Ruahine and Kaweka Ranges, and on a clear day you can see as far as Mount Ruapehu.

"A real thrill" doesn't even begin to describe it! Manageable in a normal car, van, ute, or SUV maybe. In a motorhome it was down-right dodgy. One side of the vehicle felt like it was suspended over the cliff edge while the side-view mirror scraped the cliff on the up-slope side. I think there might have been a pull-off for slower vehicles/passing, but I don't recall there being room to turn around. Fortunately, we didn't meet any vehicles coming down on us. There was nowhere to go but up, so up we went. The views were definitely spectacular. We lingered there a little while so I could build up the nerve to drive back down.


     
Views from Te Mata Peak, Hastings NZ - February 2014


I managed not to drive us off a cliff, slam into oncoming traffic, or run over any hikers or sheep, so we were happily on our way again. We were hoping to make it down to Cape Palliser to see the seals and check out the lighthouse, then backtrack and cross the Remutaka Pass into Upper Hutt and on to Wellington. In keeping with our peripatetic style of travel, we didn't stick with the plan. Looking for distractions and things to do, Kari discovered the Pukaha Mount Bruce National Wildlife Centre. We stopped to have a squiz (take a look).

The native bird preserve sits on 942 ha of forest reserve that has been protected since the 1870's. They have an active breeding program that seeks to release native birds back into the wild, as well as a free-flight aviary. In addition to the captive birds, we encountered wild native birds and long-fin eels as we meandered through the forest.


  
Tui, Kereru, and North Island Kaka: Pukaha Mt Bruce Nat'l Wildlife Centre - February 2014


     
Kakariki and Kokako:  Pukaha  Mt Bruce Nat'l Wildlife Centre - February 2014


Following our whim, lingering, swimming and hiking, and spending more days than we planned to in Gizzy meant that we were heading toward Wellington with only a couple of days left in our trip. We had a paid campsite booked in downtown Welly and we had to be checked in by a certain time so had to scrap our plan to head down to Cape Palliser. We did make it down there the first week-end after we moved to NZ in 2016.

The Lonely Planet guide warns you not to get between the seals and the water, else the seals are "likely to have a go at you". The horrendous smell was the first clue that we were surrounded by seals. The seals themselves appeared as just big lumps of grey rock. Once we spotted one, though, it was easy to pick them out.

The hike up to the lighthouse is 250 steps. At the top, "It's a beaut view from here, and a great place to linger if the wind isn't blowing your eyeballs into the back of your head." The views were spectacular, and the wind was blowing to the point of being treacherous. At one point I was blown toward a rather dodgy looking fence and Little Highstead had to crawl on her hands and knees to keep from being blown over. Standing and taking pics without holding on is not for the faint of heart.


     
Cape Palliser NZ - October 2016


We arrived in Wellington in time for our reservation then set on on foot to explore. The first order of business was to find a grocery store (buried in a historic train station) to stock up on food and wine. After stashing our supplies, we spent a little time on the piers. For dinner, I finally got to try the infamous New Zealand green-lipped mussels. Green-lipped mussel aquaculture is a $500 Million/year industry in New Zealand. Amazingly, 80% of the spat (mussel larvae essential to farming) is collected from seaweed that washes ashore on Ninety Mile Beach in the Northland.

We spent the next day exploring the Te Papa Museum and the Botanical Gardens. The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa naturally focuses on the natural and cultural histories of New Zealand and the Pacific Islands. It doesn't have the extensive collections, size, or grandeur of the Smithsonian museums or the Natural History Museum - London, but what it does it does very well. Given our shortened timeline, we were only able to spend time in the section that deals with New Zealand's natural world and in the small outdoor section. We have since been back and spent more time and still have not managed to see all the exhibits that interest us.

We caught the cable car (actually not a true cable car but a funicular railway) to Kelburn, a neighbourhood at the top of the hill and adjacent to the Wellington Botanic Garden. From there we wandered through the trees and pathways until we found one of NZ's ubiquitous amazing playgrounds where Little Highstead had her first ride on a "Flying Fox". We finished with a coffee and ice cream before heading down the hill and getting back on the road.


  
     
Wellington NZ - February 2014


Reid's Farm Campsite is a free campsite on the shore of the Waikato River in Taupo, NZ and it was our next destination. (If you are planning to camp there, check to see that it is open. Recently, there was some talk about closing the site). Taupo is a popular lakeside vacation spot with plenty of opportunities for swimming, fishing, and boating. It's also a favorite destination of cyclists and triathletes. We would be arriving too late to enjoy what the lake had to offer, but we did have plans to visit Huka Falls the next day. Personally, I haven't been too impressed with Taupo and Huka Falls and really have no desire to ever go back, but Kari liked it enough to see it again when her brother came to visit a couple of months ago.

We also visited the Waitomo Caves. The ticket package we purchased included a boat tour through Waitomo Cave to see the glow-worms, and a walking tour through Aranui Cave. The glow-worms were really cool to see, but again I was pretty unimpressed. We here herded through the caves in groups of 30 and it was easily the most touristy and least authentic thing we have done in New Zealand. We've since discovered several spots to go spelunking and see glow-worms on our own ... and for free! If you're coming to NZ for the "trip of a lifetime" and are unlikely to ever return, spend the time and money and visit Waitomo. If you're coming to visit us, and you don't mind getting wet, sweaty, and dirty, then we will take you to some caves. Good times guaranteed, glow-worms not so much.


     
  
Lake Taupo, Huka Falls, and Aranui Caves - February 2014


Our last night on the road was spent on the coast of the Tasman Sea, at the Karioi Surf Lodge in Raglan. The Karioi Outdoor Centre opened in 1973 after a group of teachers from Huntly College formed the Huntly Karioi Outdoor Trust to create a facility where visitors would have the opportunity to learn about and explore the outdoors. It became the home of the Raglan Surfing School in 2000, broadening their offerings to include beach awareness and water safety.

We had booked a powered site for the night, but when we got up to the lodge we couldn't navigate the narrow dirt track in our caravan. We discussed several options with the staff, but the campground was full and there was no way to get us into a spot with easier access. Resigned to leaving the campground and finding a freedom camp somewhere, we headed back down the dirt road. As we were easing down the road, someone asked if there was a problem. We explained our predicament and wouldn't you know we were speaking with the site manager! They offered to let us camp overnight in the staff parking lot. Doesn't sound like much, I know, but the view was spectacular.


Views of Whale Bay from Karioi Outdoor Centre staff parking, Raglan - February 2014.


  
Karioi Outdoor Centre outdoor amphitheatre, Raglan - February 2014


We made one last side-trip tramp on our drive back to Auckland the next morning. An easy walk took us to the upper rim of Waireinga Falls where the Pakoka River flows over into the remanents of a volcanic vent to the plunge pool below. The hike down to the pool was a little more difficult. On the way back up, Little H challenged me to a race to the top. I don't think either of us made it running more than half way.


  
Waireinga Falls, Makomako NZ - February 2014


Our 2 weeks on the road in New Zealand only served to re-affirm our decision to move here for a longer term. Two years later, we finally had a job lined up and were able to come to stay for a year. We continue to explore the island and the culture around us as frequently as time and finances allow. Over the next few months, we have several groups of friends and family coming for a visit. Hopefully, this gives you a feel for how we built our adventure, and some ideas on how to design your own.


Lessons Learned:

1. Hire a caravan
  • Freedom camp if you can
  • Stay in a paid campsite if you must
  • Empty your grey water often
2. Get a paper map
  • Cell signals and data are spotty and in some places they are non-existent
3. Get a paperback Lonely Planet (or similar guide)
  • It will help you find hidden gems, free places to get a thermal soak, places to hire a spade, etc
4. Have a plan
  • But not an itinerary
  • Don't be in a rush to make it to your next destination
  • Be flexible and willing to change your plan as circumstances dictate
    5. Stop and smell the roses
    • Literally. Get out of your van. Go for a walkabout. Smell some flowers.
    • (Goes along with #4 above).
    6. Eat pies





    Whāia te iti kahurangi ki te tūohu koe me he maunga teitei
    Seek the treasure you value most dearly: if you bow your head, let it be to a lofty mountain.

    (Be persistent. Don't let obstacles stop you from reaching your goal.)